MONDAY 20th DECEMBER - WAITANGI WANDERINGS

Another notch was carved on my walking pole today as I bounded further down the yellow brick road towards neither fame or fortune. Only a week has passed since my last stretch which means my average rest between sections has dropped considerably, however, as im now sitting on a yacht on which im spending the next few days and considering Christmas and New Year are almost upon me, this average is going to seriously suffer. Its only me counting though and its only my conscience I have to answer to so justifying it isnt too painful. That isnt to say I have a weak conscience, its just that my timetable isnt too strict at the moment. After the festive season, however, I will have smoke from my heels when I get my head down to some more disciplined walking.

Today my iron conscience held as i carried my pack along the 30km stretch despite the offer of a friend to take it in his car. Its not a holiday afterall, or is it..?? Following a mad coincidental meeting in the bush a few days before, Marion joined me again for todays stretch and soon after leaving Kerikeri we were gassing our way along a paper road heading towards Waitangi. Despite passing Sewage Rd and being surrounded by areas of recently logged forest it was pleasant walking and it was fast becoming a beautiful day. Cold and showery weather over the last week has further bolstered the slow onset of summer here but today at least the seasons were in their propper place. Only briefly was our arboretum ambiance shattered when a growling sewage truck shuntered past, luckily only leaving a colloum of dast in its wake.

Only a short while passed before we got to the viewpoint overlooking the Bay of Islands, with Waitangi just below us. For those that dont know, it was at the treaty house in Waitangi where, in 1840, representatives of the British Crown and Maori chiefs signed the famous Treaty of Waitangi. Although it signalled the annexation of the country by Britain, the Maori chiefs were promised full possession of their lands, forests and fisheries and the same rights and privleges as British subjects. It is this treaty that formed the platform from which the relatively egalitarian race relations evolved and its partly humanitarian motives ensured Maori people enjoyed far greater acceptance and equality under law than the indigenous peoples of other European colonised countries.

Despite disparities in education, wealth and power sharing between Maori and settlers during much of the time since, New Zealand today seems fairly integrated and equal overall. It is certainly not the utopia that it is sometimes portrayed to be but the situation is a far cry from the predjudices and culture assasination indigenous people suffered in say Australia or the USA. Maori culture remains strong and has, over recent years, undergone somewhat of a revival with more and more Maori learning their own language and embracing their traditional culture. Even non Maori's have a growing awareness of Maori culture and most New Zealanders are proud of their record of racial harmony. My own experiences meeting local Maori during my travels ha confirmed this, with all feeling proud to be a part of a multicultural society. I have so far not noticed any racial anonimity although there is no doubt to there being an undercurrent of unease in the wider community. The treaties meaning continues to be disputed to this day but generally Maori aspirations have been accomodated . It as refreshing to see such different cultures existing side by side and I am filled with hope by its achievment. Why isn't everywhere like this?

Anyway, social history lesson and Lonely Planet paraphrasing over, it was Waitangi we now overlooked and after a few snaps we headed towards New Zealands most famous historical site. Stupidly we went the wrong way and after a nasty and indirect road stretch we eventually reached the treaty hous,e our knees tired of arguing with the asphalt. There we met with David, a family friend who's hospitality I have had the pleasure of over the last few days, and had lunch on the grass by the car. The aim of the days walk was to get to Opua, where Davids yacht is moored, and the stunning coast between us and the boat promised for a lovely afternoons walking.

Once away from the road and away from Paihia's tourist bustle we followed the coast all the way up the inlet to Opua marina. It was a beautiful stretch beside the clear and tropical looking waters and the Puhutukawa trees, flowering a glowing crimson, provided a stunning contrast to the azure ocean. The Puhutukawa tree flowers in December and has thus gained the name of New Zealand's Christmas tree. I wish our Christmas trees were as transfixing as the blood bright flowers of the Puhutukawa's. You wouldn't even need to decorate them!

The Tui's certainly appreciated this beauty as they composed their angelic chorus from the branches. I tried to encourage them with some whistling if my own but it was a poor imitation of their complex and distinctive song. A Tui's cry can always be told from other birds and it sounds like no other I have ever heard; fluctuating between a sweet melodic tone and a rougher range of noises that sound like R2D2 after a few too many. It is this distinctive call that has given them an elevated national status, even seeing them enshrined as a local NZ brown ale. The ale is not quite as sweet as their calls but is a damn good drink all the same and just the sort of refreshment I was desperately craving as Opua marina emerged from the bushes. After an ice cream Marion and I cracked open a beer each and soaked up the sun at the edge of the jetty while we waited for David to collect a part for his boat. Its a hard life...... and in this case its me thats got to do it!

I hope everyone has a Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year and may the festivities be heard echoing long after Santa's sleigh has been put back in the garage. I will be resuming the new paced walk after New Year and the new resolution upholding Dan be seeing you all again then. Adios Amigos!

Viewpoint		Maori carvings, Waitangi
Me under the Christmas tree		David and I in the mangroves

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